Endurance

 It's about time... sorry if it's not well formulated – writing quickly.

For a short while we were all able to experience routine in our lives. Living with a family in Stone-Town and going to kiwahili/IMS lectures created a day that was more predictable. I realized that much of my overwhelming feelings about wilderness come from the fact that I simply am a foreigner here. The wild itself is foreign and after spending more time – being patient, I have now noticed its presence. We have watched the sunset at the beach many times. We have gone on trips to the coral reefs, and now we are in Pemba.

But a lot has happened that I haven't mentioned. Writing on this little computer doesn't seem too important – but I want to keep in touch! So here goes...

After our kiswahili exam and multiple days of going to Lukmans (where our meals usually cost no more than $1), we have moved out of our first home-stays. Mine was absolutely fantastic. Especially when my mama decided to host a party for the whole group! We traveled right the Mangapwani – a small fishing village just north. We all lived together as a group and had cultural immersion assignments. We cooked our own food and created most of our days – our long days. It's oppressively hot now. We're all anxiously waiting for the rain. Mangapwani was a rewarding trip. We were in four groups and each had our own topic. We chose to learn about land ownership/management. I really liked our topic. I thought it would be interesting because I wanted to compare it to what I knew about America. It's hugely different – at least in the way it's viewed. In Zanzibar, after the revolution the President gave everyone 3 acres of land. There are no taxes on the land. It was a gift. Most people have obtained their land for inheriting it from their family who received it. Some people borrow the land from family or friends. Some people borrow it from the government to work it seasonally. On the land, there is a general homogeneity about how it is used. The majority of the people are not just farmers... they are also fishermen, or teachers, or make lime. But almost everyone grows food on the land that they own. The number one crop is cassava followed by rice and bananas (all of which are exotic). When I asked people questions about conserving land or keeping it but not using it, they didn't understand. If someone has land, they will grow crops. It is food or money. The youth don't seem to be too engaged in farming. There were one or two we talked to in Mangapwani, but most people are older. Due to urbanization, globalization and tourism, most youth are finding jobs in other places (when they get our of school). All land is owned by the government. If the government wants to build a road or something, they buy the value of the trees/land off someone. A farmer needs to get a permit from the local government (the sheha) in order to cut a tree. Now, it is illegal to cut mango trees because the numbers are declining. Overall, people felt secure with their land. They didn't appear to be worried, at all, that the government might take it away.

I expected to feel anxious or uneasy about a practice with the land. I expected to be worried. But I didn't feel that way. All the people in the village know the species and work the land. There are a few problems now and ones that could effect the future, for example, soil fertility and the need for diversification of crops. It's amazing how connected people are. And most everyone feels the need to protect what feeds them. Also, I recognized how vulnerable these people are. They eat what they grow and catch – meaning lots of fruit, fish, a few veggies, and grains or sorts. But there is no infrastructure for the food. So, what happens if the seasons alter or they have a bad year or a new pest is introduced. There is no way to preserve/keep the food. They rely on their soil and rain every year. I also loved running in Mangapwani. There were dirt roads and trails through the trees. In Stone-Town... it's rough. It's also nice making running in the morning the routine. Between 5:50 and 6, it gets light out. At 6:10, the sun rises.

We had a one day transition in Stone-Town, at the comfortable home of Mauwani Inn. The next day we flew to Pemba. It's wildly different. First, it's hilly! Also, it is more rural and poverty is more prevalent. While in Pemba, we are fairly nomadic every day. Well, we sleep at our new home-stays but we go somewhere new every day. We have gone to see salt farming, a agriculture farm, the reserve for the Pemba flying-fox, rubber farming and production, walking through Ngezi forest reserve area, and typical house construction. The roads are really terrible here so every gets a big car sick and groggy. The neatest thing is that we get to see all of this in actions. We are taught by people who work there and see it all happening right in front of us. We make many conclusions for ourselves since they all know little english. For example, they have to cut down mangroves in order to farm salt near the ocean because they can't transport the water. The Pemba flying-fox population has increased but what happens if the government takes the land or it trees keep getting cut down? In Ngezi, since they don't do education for local students, how successful and valued will it be in the future? Will the children of Pemba still know the medicinal properties of all the trees here?

I am so immersed in this culture but I still don't know how to live here. It is getting easier and harder at the same time. My home-stay family is wonderful but it's definitely a challenge! I have no running water in the “bathroom” - just a hole in the ground. I am very thankful, though, for my fan. I have about ten brothers and sisters (I think) and the one who is my age (21) has a one month old baby. She doesn't go to school but I think she did. I got to talk to my REAL parents last night and we talked a little bit about what it is like to live with a new family, especially one that doesn't speak my language and speaks very little of mine. I have to trust. I have to let my guard down and participate in their life – their home. For example, all the sisters dance together. They want me to join. I could be embarrassed and laugh but sit and not let them see me, OR I could get up and dance. If they laugh, it's okay. Whether or not they are laughing at me doing it wrong or looking silly, it still expresses joy and I like it. It's fun and rewarding to put myself out there.

Today we are resting... I'm sick for the first time and feeling very tired, but feeling lucky, still, to be here.

Some things that are different and new:

• I have a new name. It's Leila. It means “night” or “time of the moon”
• I have a new family – either us 16 students or my families in Stone-Town and Pemba
• I only eat what is growing now. I love mango and I want more, but the season is over. I can't have it.
• Telling time is different. You have to add or subtract 6 from the time. Right now it is 10:30am... but really, it's 4:30... then I have to convert it into kiswahili. So, really, it takes forever to say the time.
• It just rained for the first time since I've been here.
• Being a woman here is not like being a woman in the states. I can't play sports and people stare when I run.

Becky, when I see babies, I think of you and Oliver.

Lots of love to all. Thanks for being patient.

-Leila

Kiswahili teachers:

Sunset at Mangapwani: